Energy Auditing H.E.L.P.

BGE Energy Audit instant Discounting & BGE Rebate Program:

With the Maryland BGE Rebate Program you can have a full comprehensive Energy Audit at the low price of $100 (typically $400), $300 will be saved instantly & the contractor will be reimbursed, after the full home Energy Audit you will receive a work order with line item pricing explaining exactly which retrofits would save you the most & which are most important, please visit our Buy Energy Audit page for more information & details on pricing.

As part of the BGE Rebate Program you are eligible for $7,500.00 in rebates from BGE if you heat with natural gas or have Central A/C.  $7,500.00 can go towards Energy Retrofits & a portion can go towards high efficiency HVAC upgrades if requested.

Home Energy Loss Professionals does the Energy Retrofit work as well as the Energy Audit, so we do not sub-contract out the Energy Retrofits we recommend, for instance insulating your attic or air sealing throughout your home to increase your family's comfort as well as reduce your energy bills.

What an Energy Audit can give you:

Energy Audits can provide detailed information on Green Energy Retrofits that are cost-effective or that give a direct payback on the investments that are made in the Green Retrofits. The investment formula is your energy improvement's SIR or your Savings to Investment Ratio. A good Auditor will tell you that the investments you make on the energy retrofits will pay themselves back in energy savings in a short five or less years. Therefore, with measures that are designed to last the life of your home, after seven years, or shorter with the escalating energy cost, you can be repaid on your investment and be more comfortable in your home. After the pay back period you will actually be making money on your homes energy losses. An example of a SIR is new windows: New windows make a house look better BUT, unless they are falling out, it will take you about twenty-five years to get a pay back on them. (And the window scam continues though, with guarantees of 40 % energy saving). In addition, when the energy retrofit is completed, upon resale, your home can qualify for an Energy Efficient Mortgage or EEM's. Thus, Auditors can provide you with a verifiable way to tell what retrofits you should install, by giving your home a walk through audit. An audit can take from 1-4 hours on the walk through (depending on the methods used) and up to 4 hours to crunch the data. With an audit you will receive a report on the energy waste in your home and cost effective investments or retrofits. To guess at what energy retrofits to install could be a great waste of money. A good home audit should include blower door testing, for with this you have a tangible start point. 

As for some of the auditing methods:

Blower door (air leakage) testing and infrared scanning are some of the most frequently used methods. Computerized combustion analysis is also highly recommended, for with an efficient (tight) home can come Carbon Monoxide poisoning. When the home is drafty, this gas is not "as" dangerous, but when the house is air-sealed, this gas is more condensed. Ask what method will be used to test all combustion units?!

Some of the measures could include attic, floor, wall, kneewall, or duct insulation (see insulation), furnace upgrades or retrofits, air sealing (see air sealing), setback thermostats, etc. . . A computer generated audit is recommended when some of the higher priced investments are contemplated.

Blower door testing is state of the art, as far as energy audits are concerned. Any audit that does not use this method is heading for failure. Yes, old-timers can tell you what areas of your house to work on but, this testing can take you right to the areas of your house that you are losing energy through convective air currents.

Hot air is drawn to cold air like a magnet and any cracks or holes in your thermal home envelope can be costing you money. Some may be leaky and some not. This machine will show you which ones to seal. It also gives you a CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) measurement that can be related to other homes, thus giving you a way to judge the efficiency of your building envelope. It depressurizes the house, so that even the smallest of drafts can be felt. If you are getting an energy audit... definitely ask if they will be using blower door technology!!!

Infrared Cameras are also useful tools to tell the level of insulation in wall cavities, attics and basements. So mainly they can tell the intensity of conductive energy loss. They can also be used to detect any types of energy losses. Not all home audits have to include this, but it is helpful. This device can in effect fine tune the energy audit.

Free Low-Income Audits

Energy audits are often available at no cost through local Energy Assistance and Weatherization programs. These programs are often operated in conjunction with your local utility company. Many of these items can be found in a private energy audit, but these would all be free of cost if you meet income guidelines: Being 150% to 200% above the poverty guidelines. Some of the services could include the following:

  1. A detailed energy analysis.
  2. Upgrade of HVAC systems.
  3. Tuning and cleaning of HVAC equipment.
  4. Repairs to distribution systems.
  5. Insulating of attics and crawlspaces.
  6. Air sealing, caulking, foam, weatherstripping, etc...
  7. Repair of broken glass.
  8. Replacement of windows and doors (in extreme cases).
  9. Installation of storm windows and doors (rarely, but in some States).
  10. Water conservation devices.
  11. Energy efficient lighting.

More information can be obtained by contacting your local Energy Assistance or Weatherization programs. These programs are available in each State and the District of Columbia.


“Only about 5 percent of the Energy Retrofit/Auditing companies in Maryland have performed so consistently well enough to earn our Super Service Award,” said Angie’s List Founder Angie Hicks. “It’s a really high standard.”

1. Home Performance with Energy Star Contractor of the Year 2008
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2. National Public Radio (another coming up soon)
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5. TV Fox 45 Morning Show
6. Maryland Gazzette
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7. Angie's List Super Service Award Winner 2014
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Home Energy Savings Guide

Guide to our Energy Savings Pages


- Energy Savings Guide (This Page)

- Air Sealing

- Home Weatherization

- Insulation

- BGE Energy Audits/Home Energy Audits

- Free Low-Income Energy Audits

- Heating & Air Conditioning

- Air Distribution/Duct Systems

- BGE Rebates & HPwES Program

- What is an Energy Audit?

- Off The Grid Living & Zero Energy Loss Homes

- Zones & their importance


Reasons to Conserve Energy

With the changing of the global climates, home comfort is more important than ever and as we all know, with this comfort, comes a cost. We cannot just turn our thermostats up or down anymore. We must make our home’s as "green" as possible, to stop losses through the energy shell. While saving money and increasing your families comfort, the home’s "carbon footprint" can also be lessened. For these reasons we offer our Home Energy Savings Guide, "to HELP those who want to HELP themselves." This guide will walk you through areas of your home, that with a professional energy audit, you will find to be inefficient. The guide will show you cost effective investments in energy and measures to look for when an energy audit is done to your home. The most modern of technologies will be shown, including blower door testing and infrared scanning.

Another important reason to conserve home energy resources is Global Climate Change. In order to produce energy for our home, we product byproducts and one of the most devastating byproduct is Carbon Dioxide. Once this gas enters the upper atmosphere, it has a half life of 500 years. It has been proven that this is one of the main reasons that our seasons are having dramatic swings. 31.5 % of the Greenhouse gas production is said to come from residential energy use. By reducing home energy consumption, we can reduce Climate Change.

Low Cost Energy Improvements

There are numerous low cost energy items that you can purchase and be garanttee a direct payback. They include: Low-Flow Showerheads, Low- Flow Faucet Aerators, Hot Water Heater Insulation, Pipe Wrap for hot water, Plastic for your windows, Weatherstripping and Door Sweeps for your doors, Foam (sponge) for fixed windows with air conditioners, Filters for your heating/cooling system, Furnace Cleaning and Tuning, Water Dams for your toilet tank, Energy Efficient Light Bulbs (Even though you may feel strange paying over $30.00 for a LED light bulb... they last 20 years and may save over $500.00... they only use ~15 watts of power and give off much better light), etc... These are just a few low cost energy improvements, so you may want to contact your local hardware store for more ideas.

Please visit this Energy Page designed to guide kids of all ages:

- The Kid's Energy Page

Links to other related pages:

- Global Change Research WWW Links
- MD Energy Links
- Home Energy Rating System Guidelines

Our Contact Information:

Telephone: 410-282-1422
1-877-NRG-SAVIngs (1-877-674-7284) (toll free)
Fax: 410-284-4673
Mailing Address:
Home Energy Loss Professionals
7329 Holabird Ave
Baltimore, MD 21222
Email address: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Home Energy Loss Professionals (H.E.L.P.)
Find about more about H.E.L.P. here.
Off The Grid Living & Zero Energy Loss Homes

Off The Grid Living & Zero Energy Loss Homes

In recent years the "extremes of Global Warming" are being felt on ever increasing basis. We at Home Energy Loss Professionals (H.E.L.P.) are connecting with other companies and groups to make these occurrences’ less troublesome. A normal home in a heavy snow storm, ice storm, hurricane, tornado or any natural disaster, that can take your home "off the grid (OTG)", can make for extreme discomfort for your family and yourself. For prolonged periods of time, being off the grid, could even be life threatening.

This page is designed to give advice on the many ways that modern technology, advances in energy efficiency, and Federal & State Stimulus rebates and Utility incentives can all HELP to make being off the grid a reality. A truly (totally) off the grid (OTG) house can be expensive and with existing construction, maybe impossible, but there are many ways that this idea can be near reality. Whether your home be a condo, row-home, colonial or rancher construction, all homes can be improved upon.

First and foremost, many searches on the internet do not include "weatherizing" your home for reasons of "emergency situations". True, many do not like to think of "worst case scenarios", but with Climate Change, we must begin to incorporate "self-sufficiency" in our everyday lives. Weatherizing your home has many facets, but the main ones are "Air Sealing" (see see air sealing) and "Insulation" (see insulation). These are the main ways that energy escapes from your home. Your homes supplier of energy also must be properly maintained, but the heating and cooling unit does not have to be new or replaced to work efficiently (LINK). H.E.L.P. has created Energy Guide Pages for this purpose (see home energy guide).

A home "Green Energy Audit" is the best way to start this process. A good energy audit must at least include a blower-door test and even better would be an Infrared Scan jointly. As stated earlier, it is our intent to couple with other sustainable energy reduction groups to create a "total off the grid (OTG) package".

An example of retrofits for OTG would be "air sealing" (see air sealing). Hot air is drawn to colds air in a vacuum in nature and you do not always have to feel a draft to be losing energy. A "Blower-Door" test reveals these losses. Sometime the loss can equal having a door open year round. In an emergency situation, having no energy being loss to the outdoors, if the energy cannot be produced, can be the difference between discomfort and comfort. The reverse of this is also true, if outdoor air becomes unhealthy to breath, and by being air tight, this air cannot enter the indoor environment.

Another example of retrofits for OTG would be "insulation" (see insulation). Energy is absorbed through walls, floors, ceilings, water pipes (boiler also), hot water heaters, ducts, windows, doors and many other. If this absorption is stopped or at least slowed down, this will make the energy systems work less and in extreme cases, if the system is not working, the stored energy will last much longer. Again, can be the difference between discomfort and comfort.

We intend to explore other avenues being OTG, such as solar energy, wind energy, wood heating, green roofs, and the much needed back-up electric generators. Back-up generators can be of many forms, such as: solar that feeds back to the grid and can be returned when needed, or battery cell storage (the best, but most expensive) and fuel fired (which must be vented or outdoors. With this back-up electric, anything from the bare necessities of light and refrigerators can be used, to some energy units being able to function. Some of these would work automatically and other would have to be started, but in all cases, being maintained is a necessity. We recommend drills or mock situations that HELP your family prepare for OTG times. Just as all families should have a plan for fire or carbon monoxide emergencies, in today’s changing climates, OTG drills should also be conducted.

Off The Grid Living & HVAC Upgrades

As the weather of The Planet become more abnormal, Off-The-Grid (OTG) Home Energy Retrofits, Low Energy Usage HVAC Systems and other types of Residential Energy Production are becoming more necessary. Along with these strange Acts of Nature, Mankind is becoming more apt to create situations where long-term energy independence, or low energy usage per home is slowly coming to the forefront. They can include what some may call as conspiracies, but we @ HELP call these "what ifs" that we should all be aware of and be ready to protect our families for. H.E.L.P. has prided itself for decades for being ahead of the Energy-Savings Curve by implementing new technologies as they come off the drawling-board. Thus, this OTG Page and the embedded Links are being given to HELP Readers master their energy future, no matter what Acts of God or Man may throw into the Planet's Climate Arena. Air-Sealing & Ventilation: The Federal Energy Efficiency Codes in 2016 are calling for tightening up residential building shells as tight as possible and then adding "make-up air" to alleviate and air quality problems that this tightening may produce. "About 40 percent of U.S. energy consumption provides heat, cooling and power to buildings." Building energy codes are widely seen as cost-effective policy tools to combat emissions, lower homeowner utility costs, and increase home comfort and value.

2016 Safety Standards

For many years before 2016 the minimum air sealing limits were .35 air changes per hour naturally (ACHN) (being ~ 1/3 of all the homes air leaving per hour) and now there are no minimum limits, but as a safe guard to health issues, new national ventilation standards have be place to insure that no harm is done to occupants by BPI and other standard organizations. HELP is keeping up with all of these changes by continued education, seminars and classroom training of all Team Members to be ensure no harm is done also. One of the biggest home retrofit that the standards are calling for is continuous fresh air ventilation. This does sound counter-productive to tighten a home through "Air-Sealing" (hyperlink here). This additional air is a necessary trade off for a super energy efficient home though. Some major fresh air source ways are: whole house full-time ventilation, via a bath type fan full-time (or on a timer / calculated), energy recovery systems (HRV & ERV), and duct work adaption for part-time fresh air (HELP's #1 Choice). The full-time bath fan style systems almost speak for themselves but you can see this Hyper-Link (enter ) for further FYI's. A little about the HVR's & the EVR's is: There are two types of energy-recovery systems: heat-recovery ventilators (HRV) and energy-recovery ventilators (ERV). HRV systems draw fresh air into a home while simultaneously exhausting stale air from the home. During this exchange, the two air-streams pass through a core within the unit where a portion of heat from one air stream is transferred into the other (usually the indoor air in winter and the outdoor air in summer). An ERV works similarly to an HRV, except an ERV allows a portion of the moisture in the more humid air stream (usually the indoor air in winter and the outdoor air in summer) to be transferred to the dryer air stream. Hyper-Link (enter ) One of the best and least expensive ways in which the home's can be protected is by adding make up / outside air via "the Return Side" (enter hyperlink ) of a HVAC Duct System (hyperlink to Guide Ducts here). To HELP these seem the most cost effective additional ventilation retrofits. Adding fresh air to a heating or cooling system accomplishes two primary indoor air quality goals: It pressurizes a building, and increases indoor air quality by diluting polluted or stale indoor air. Outside air enters the system through a roof or sidewall vent inlet that collects air from a clean outside location. The air is pulled into the system through a filter, and then a duct connected to the return plenum. Smaller systems usually use the suction side of the air handler fan to pull in the outside air. The air mixes with the return air, and then is dispersed evenly throughout the building through the supply duct system. Thus, every time the HVAC comes on, some fresh outside air enters the home... So to summarize the newest National Energy Efficiency Method, or as it is called ASHRAE Standard 62.1 (enter ) to bring greater comfort to families; With more advanced technologies and advances in Home Comfort Air-Sealing (see Guide Air-Sealing) more strict controls have been implemented to ensure safety to occupants, therefore be sure that the Energy Savings Contractor that you choose is aware of the 2016 Guidelines and that they do not cut corners... for you families health and safety can be at risk!!! Calculating tools (enter ) have been given and ignorance is no excuse for not abiding by the Safety Standards that are now in place. We hope that you enjoy you super energy efficient home and do not stop with just the basics of Air-Sealing & Ventilation, but take your dwelling to even higher Energy Star levels by installing the most advance technologies at hand to bring your home as Off-The-Grid as possible. We hope that the above HELPed...

Super High Efficiency HVAC/Geo-Thermal

Super High Efficiency HVAC Systems: With a higher plateau being set for Energy Efficient in the general market place, as with none gas guzzling automobiles and electric cars, the Home Energy Sector is also benefiting with super efficient HVAC System, some said to be 150% efficient. Just as when you buy a new refrigerator or dryer, an Energy Star Label is required now on all new HVAC (see Furnace Guide) and Hot Water Heating Systems. Thus when purchasing a home comfort system it is in your best interest to do your homework when spending from $2,500.00 to $25,000.00 on a product that may last for 20 years or more. Articles like this and Web Search are invaluable when choosing a system for installation and when choosing a Installer, who keeps up with all of the latest Technologies and Utility, State and Federal Rebates. This HVAC OTG FYI with briefly go into the best ways to condition your Home's Air, Water and even Electric Production, to keep your family as far from the Grid as possible. We @ HELP make it a point to HELP our customers be as informed as possible with our Home Energy Savings Guides (see Energy Guide Link). We have a lot of information on HVAC Systems in general @ our Furnace & Duct Guide, but we are expanding this here for the High Efficiency Systems and such. Some of the basics from the other Pages are terminologies as SEER, COP and HSPF that many Federal Energy Star Labels refer too. I will just touch on these terms as to not to detract from the "meat" of the systems types, but do research these yourself for they are important when comparing units: This is from one of the better "SEER, COP and HSPF" (enter ) Search Pages I found... ""Is this correct?: SEER is BTU cooling / watt hours needed. So divide this number by 3.412 to get the COP. Thus a 16 seer unit would have a COP of 4.7 or so. HSPF is BTU heat produced / watt hours needed. So take a heat pump with a HSPF of 10, which is supposed to be pretty good and divide that by 3.412 = a COP of 2.9." "Both the COP and EER values for groundwater heat pumps are single-point (valid only at the specific test conditions used in the rating) values only. This is in contract to the seasonal values (HSPF and SEER) published for air-source equipment. COP and EER are not the same as, or valid for use in comparison to, SEER and HSPF. #4 (good FYI) "SEER & EER are related to the cooling/AC side of heat pump (or AC) and HPSF/COP are related to the heating side of a heat pump. The SEER & HSPF numbers are supposed to be a seasonal or average of an entire season. The EER & COP are a "snapshot" at a given outdoor temperature. EER's are rated at 95 deg(F) and COP's were rated at 47 & 17 deg(F). Many standards now look at muliples of these such as the $1,500 tax credit looks at SEER, EER & HSPF. I always did like the COP because I was taught that a COP equated to a ratio of for every dollars worth of electricity that was consumed, you got $X dollars worth of heat." Also noteworthy is this very good Link to the "Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute" (link to ) Now back to the Meat & Potatoes of System Types... But as note here is that with any of the super efficient system, the home's conditioned envelope (see Guide WAP?) must be tight and the home must be well insulated (See Guide Insulation). I refer to these pre or post shell requisites as "Icing-On-The-Cake". The HVAC System we see being installed much more is Geo-Thermal, which pulls the heating and cooling from the Earth's Constant Temp of ~ 55 deg, as opposed to Heat Pumps that draw these from the Air. Both of these system are said to be ~150% eff, but Geo can abstract the heat at much lower outdoor temps. Geo-Thermal does have a high purchase price, as Solar but between Federal, State and Utility Rebates this price can come down well over 50%!!! Thus, Do Not let the "Sticker-Shock" scare you away. Again, do you homework with these and the EER's and COPs are the important ratings that you should be comparing and the higher they both are the more efficient the models (Best are about 25.3 EER and 4.3 COP). This Water-Furnace Link (enter ) is very HELPful.

Solar Panels

Along with Geo-Thermal, another high price tag to start-up system is the Energy Generating Solar Collector. Again do not let the first price you see give you Sticker-Shock until you have done your research. Solar Collectors for electric have really transformed in the past couple of years to a point to where it is now possible to keep the electric that is produced within your dwelling, via a Tesla Rechargeable Storage "Powerwall" Battery (enter ). Though these collector are quite expensive now, the prices will come down, as when computer where first introduced till today. These collector will give a dwelling true energy independence for OTG Living. Presently the way most units are designed, power is sent back into the Grid, to be reused later and in some State this power can be sold back to the Utilities. There are also options to outright purchases as: Leasing, Green Energy Loans that pay themselves back, Renting and even Borrowing, with the option to sell back the energy to pay for the unit. The longevity of the units has also increase dramatically to possibly providing a life-time of use and upgrades, as has the efficiency of collection. It seems "the sky is the limit" (sorry for the pun) for Solar Collectors and the trends will only grow with the rising cost of energy. When these collectors are used in tandem with super efficient HVACs, OTG Living can be a real possibility to even to the average homeowner... Thus the HELP buyers pick for Off-The-Grid New Home Construction or Existing Home Energy Retrofits would be: 1) Have you home made as air-tight and as insulated as possible (Energy Guide Insulation). Have the Insulation upgraded to the next colder climate above your via the Energy Star DOE Chart (enter ). With this Chart Maryland is recommended to have R-38 Attic Insulation, but 1 State up the levels are R-49, thus choose R-49 for for Insulation Upgrade. Historically as the Energy Codes have changed, one level up is always in the new Codes. When I started 30 years ago our Insulation Levels were R-30 and today R-38 to R-49 are recommended. Note: Any levels above R-60 are a waste, for at this level, even with a -30 deg outdoors temperature there will be Zero Energy Loss through the attic. 2) Choose the most efficient heating and cooling unit you can afford and do your homework to make sure your dollars go the furthest If possible, Geo-Thermal is the HELP choice of choicest. 3) Try to purchase a Solar Collector that can withstand future upgrades, be them additional collectors, in dwelling storage and a unit that in the long-term you will own. With Solar Installs, also look for a Company that has been installing these for a while and a company that is not just looking to make a buck and place a unit on your roof asap. Make sure they inspect your roof's material for longevity, be it your shingles. the plywood beneath and the strength of the wooden beams that support your roof, a Detailed Report on the Energy Produced and Saved "compared" to the money you will spend, as well as any local ordinances that could come in effect in the future that would force you to disassemble your collector... as well as "the fine print". Thus, be a wise Energy Efficiency Shopper and strive for the best "Savings-To-Investment (SIR) (see SIRs Guide) possible for your money and try to get Off-The-Grid as soon as possible, while the Government and others are offering extremely invited Rebates and Tax Credits Packages to HELP your family do so.

Air Sealing

Air sealing is one of the easiest way that you can save hundreds of dollars a year with just a minimum of investment. Many times you only need caulk, foam and drywall or R-Max board. Heat seeks cold and wherever you have a crack or hole, heat will be drawn out like a vacuum in the winter and drawn in the summer. These are called, "air infiltration areas". These areas are usually in the conditioned areas. "Bypasses" are areas in unconditioned or unintentionally conditioned areas that create a air draw or vacuum up the chases or wall cavities of the home. This vacuum helps to draw energy out of your house. One you can find now is in your basement. In most homes if you go to where the chimney cavity goes up the wall and look up, you will see gaps or a hole where the concrete and the wooden floor meets. This chase goes all the way up to the attic. Not only is this a fire hazard for flames in the basement can be drawn up the house, to set the attic ablaze, but this chase is "sucking" energy out of your house, up to the attic. IT MUST BE SEALED!!! Your house is full of these leaks and a Blower Door or infrared scan can HELP you find them.. Air sealing and duct sealing go hand in hand for as much as 70% of your duct work could be a hole to the great outdoors. Pressure Pan Testing and other methods will find these in a Green Energy Audit. Ask you auditor if they can provide these services.

Common Locations of Leakage

Save on heating and cooling costs by checking for air leaks in common trouble spots in your home

Reducing the amount of air that leaks in and out of your home is a cost-effective way to cut heating and cooling costs, improve durability, increase comfort, and create a healthier indoor environment. Caulking and weatherstripping are two simple and effective air-sealing techniques that offer quick returns on investment, often one year or less. Caulk is generally used for cracks and openings between stationary house components such as around door and window frames, and weatherstripping is used to seal components that move, such as doors and operable windows.

Air Leakage

Air leakage occurs when outside air enters and conditioned air leaves your house uncontrollably through cracks and openings. It is unwise to rely on air leakage for ventilation. During cold or windy weather, too much air may enter the house. When it's warmer and less windy, not enough air may enter, which can result in poor indoor air quality. Air leakage also contributes to moisture problems that can affect occupants’ health and the structure’s durability. An added benefit is that sealing cracks and openings reduces drafts and cold spots, improving comfort.

The recommended strategy is to reduce air leakage as much as possible and to provide controlled ventilation as needed. Before air sealing, you should first:

You can then apply air sealing techniques and materials, including caulk and weatherstripping. If you're planning an extensive remodel of your home that will include some construction, review some of the techniques used for air sealing in new home construction and consider a home energy audit to identify all the ways your home wastes energy and money.

Note that air sealing alone doesn’t eliminate the need for proper insulation to reduce heat flow through the building envelope.

Learn more here:

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Purchase Your Home Energy Audit Here


Energy audits can provide detailed information on energy retrofits that are cost effective or that give a direct payback on the investments that are made in the retrofits. 877.NRG.SAVI(ngs) or 410-(282)-(1422)

Up to $ 7500.00 in rebates available from BGE for attic insulation & air sealing, check your eligibility today, or purchase your Energy Audit now by selecting the top menu item "Buy Energy Audit", or click this link & using our self service PayPal system, you can pay & signup now!


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